MESSAGE
DATE | 2015-01-29 |
FROM | Ruben Safir
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SUBJECT | Re: [NYLXS - HANGOUT] Another Lower East Side Institution is leaving
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Maybe they should have converted it to a Shmorah Matzah bakery
Now, what are the Yekis going to do in Washington Heights?
Ruevain
On Wed, Jan 07, 2015 at 10:57:30AM -0500, einker wrote: > Streit???s Matzo Factory, a Piece of Lower East Side History, Is Moving On > > By JOSEPH BERGER > JAN. > 6, 2015 > > http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/07/nyregion/streits-is-set-to-close-its-lower-east-side-matzo-factory.html?action=click&contentCollection=Food®ion=Footer&module=MoreInSection&pgtype=article > > The grandchildren and great-grandchildren of the people who abandoned the > squalor of the Lower East Side tenements have been moving back into those > very same buildings, paying sums like $3,000 to rent apartments that a few > decades before went for under $50, turning the neighborhood into one of New > York City???s hippest. > > Yet Streit???s matzo factory in four > converted 19th-century brick tenements on Rivington Street has withstood > the tides of gentrification, one of the last vestiges of the classic Lower > East Side that was the foothold in America for millions of immigrants and > that one scholar calls ???the Jewish Plymouth Rock.??? > > On Tuesday, however, the descendants of the founding Streit (rhymes with > ???right???) family announced that they will be shutting down their ovens > sometime after Passover > , > baking matzos elsewhere, possibly in the Meadowlands of New Jersey. The > factory is being sold to a real estate developer. > > That will leave only a handful of places like Katz???s Delicatessen > , > Yonah Schimmel Knish Bakery > and Russ & Daughters > > on Houston Street and Economy Candy on > Rivington Street among the remnants of the traditional Lower East Side. > Well-known outposts like Ratner???s > > dairy restaurant, Schapiro Wine Company > > and Schmulka Bernstein???s > , famous for > its kosher Chinese food, are all gone. > > ???For the last few years, it???s been clear we are the last remaining > connection many Jews can relate to because their parents and grandparents > came through the Lower East Side,??? said Alan M. Adler, a great-grandson of > Aron Streit, the business???s founder. ???Most of these places don???t exist > anymore, and it???s very sad this one will be closing as well.??? > > The closing was first reported on Tuesday by the blog Bowery Boogie > > . > > Annie Polland, senior vice president for programs and education at the Tenement > Museum > , > said that there had been something sweet about alumni of the Lower East > Side descending on Sundays to shop and still find mainstays of the old > neighborhood. > > ???They could go on walking tours and afterward have the experience of stores > selling Jewish food, Jewish pickles, Judaica shops,??? she said. ???In the > early 2000s they could still have that experience. It???s mostly gone.??? > > The pressure of gentrification, Mr. Adler said, is not the reason the > factory is closing, since the family has resisted offers to sell for years. > Rather, he said, ???the reality is that operating a modern factory in four > old buildings has finally caught up with us.??? > > The two 75-foot ovens, which produce 900 pounds of matzo per hour, are > slowing down with age, and ???we can???t find anyone to repair them,??? Mr. Adler > said. The factory has no loading dock, and delivery trucks cannot find > parking. ???It???s tough to do business in Manhattan,??? he said. > > The American matzo business has also been battered by the popularity of > cheaper Israeli brands, some of which supermarkets give away free as > Passover > > come-ons. (A five-pound package of Streit???s matzos that can feed a family > throughout the eight days of Passover can cost about $18.) Many Jews also > splurge on the more expensive shmura matzos that are baked by hand in small > factories in Hasidic neighborhoods and undergo more extensive rabbinical > supervision. > > Streit???s describes itself as the last family-owned major matzo producer in > the United States. Manischewitz > , > which considers itself the world???s largest matzo baker, was also a family > business until 1990 but is now owned by an arm of the private equity > > firm Bain Capital and owns or manufactures two other leading brands, Goodman???s > and Horowitz Margareten . Streit???s has a > second factory in Moonachie, N.J., that produces macaroons, matzo ball mix > and other popular Passover products, and it may be the site of new ovens, > though Mr. Adler cautioned that the family ??? there are 11 shareholders ??? is > still deliberating over a location. > > Mr. Adler and his relatives informed the factory???s 50 workers on Monday, > telling them they would find jobs at the company???s New Jersey site if they > could accommodate the commute. > > Streit???s was started around 1915 by Aron Streit, an Austrian immigrant, who > teamed up with a rabbi to open his first handmade matzo factory on nearby > Pitt Street. A decade later, Aron and his oldest son, Irving, opened the > Rivington Street factory in a single tenement. Another son, Jack, joined > the business, and it did so well that it expanded into three adjoining > tenements. Aron died in 1935. > > Today the business is run by Mr. Adler, a great-grandson of Aron???s; Aron > Yagoda, another of the founder???s great-grandsons; and Aaron Gross, a > great-great-grandson and the fifth generation in the business. Matzo-making > was so woven into the family that the 63-year-old Mr. Adler gave up a legal > career 15 years ago to become a vice president in charge of operations. > > Though matzo is a simple mixture of wheat flour and water, producing it is > an intricate affair. During Passover, observant Jews are forbidden to eat > grain products that have been allowed to leaven, or ferment and rise, so > the flour and water must be placed in an oven within 18 minutes after they > are mixed. The entire process is supervised by what are known as mashgichim > > ??? Orthodox people trained in the fine points of kosher law. Streit???s > employs seven of them. > > At Streit???s, the mixing and baking are done by machine. Three minutes of > mixing, followed by a flattening of the dough and the punching of the > characteristic holes and then a trip lasting 1 minute 40 seconds through > the oven. But the aging ovens are taking longer to process the mixture, > which can change the taste and helps explain why the factory is moving. > > > > -- > Regards, > > Evan M. Inker
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